John Dunne, climber: back from the brink

Internationally renowned climber, John Dunne back doing what he does best....

22 August 2019

One year ago John as a world renowned international climber was considering his only option was further surgery for his shoulder that was reconstructed a year previously. Despite all his efforts and the treatment he had previously received he remained unable to lift his arm above his head and was in constant pain. He had therefore not climbed for a year or more.

John was renowned for his strength and power and had established many of the hardest new routes in the UK spanning 25 years. In a year since his surgery he had lost over 50% of his arm strength and mobility.

John first needed to get his strength and stability in a range of movement he was comfortable in. We focused on getting his shoulder posture right under increasing levels of load to replicate the forces his whole body was under whilst climbing.

Gradually with deep tissue therapy and stretching he could begin to start reaching above his head under load….this time with his shoulder blade in a strong, stable position.

Very slowly then we started to add weight above head and John returned to indoor climbing to begin the more climb specific holds he needed to practice to be safe outdoors.

A year on and we travelled out to Orpierre, France where John likes to climb and I’m pleased to say he is back doing what he does best. He has lost one stone so far…..his full strength and mobility has returned and he is enjoying his climbing again. His goals this year are to increase his power and lose a further stone in weight to enable him to get back to climbing at a world class standard.

Certainly further surgery would not have helped John. What he needed was hands on treatment pushing his shoulder mobility to the limit and strengthening in the gym exposing him to the types of force he needed to develop the strength he required to climb.

Our expertise is not just working with athletes at the highest level but working with anyone who wants to be able to push their limits either in the gym, outdoors or even undo the effect of sitting all day behind a desk. If you have an injury or want to to do more but fearful of injury please get in contact. We would be delighted to help.

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